The cusine of Lunigiana is mainly based on local produce: minestrone alla lunigianese, tortelli (a kind of ravioli), cavolo con le fette (cabage with toasted bread), cibreo di rigaglie (chicken giblets with egg and lemon sauce), torta d’erbe (chard pie) and small focaccie such as panigacci.

That gastronomic traditions migrate is shown by the bomba di riso (pigeons with rice), an Emilian dish that has crossed the Apennines and taken root in a corner of Tuscany that once belonged to the ducy of Modena. From market gardens Pontremoli and the plain of Massa-Carrara the dish has been enriched by a new ingredient, chards, which are boiled and then tossed in the pan with the gravy from the cooked pigeons. The pigeons are then boned, wrapped in the chards, placed in a round mould containg the rice and baked in the oven. A rare local speciality is chestnut soup, made from dried chestnuts and beans, which are boiled at length in salted water. Before serving, add rice and chopped lard and herbs browned in the pan.

The woods of Garfagnana abound in game, the basis of many roast dishes typical of the autumn, and mushrooms: porcini (boletus), ovoli (royal agaric) and above all the rare and very tasty spring prugnoli (Tricholoma georgii). In Barga and elsewhere in the Serchio Valley it’s possible to find white and black truffles. Specilities in this area include fresh fish with spelt and infarinata, a runny polenta. Maize flour is cooked in abundant salted water, and beans, pork rind, black cabbage, browned lard, garlic and herbs are added. It may be eaten at once or, if left to cool, it will solidify and can be cut into slices and fried in oil.

clams and salt cod
Naturally enough, on the coast near Carrara and in Versilia most of the dishes are fish based. In particular, little clams are served with speghetti or in soups. Once upon a time they were collected by people wadding waist deep to and fro in the sea, dragging a sort of seive behind them.

Salt cod is a common ingredient in the cusine of Carrara, where it is eaten in a soup alla carrarina (with tomato and vinegar) or in fritters. To make the latter, leave the salt cod to soak for two days, then put it on the chopping board with the skin in contact with the wood and, using a fork, crumble the fish. Prepare a batter with ten tablespoons of white flour diluted with milk to obtain a fairly runny mixture; add two tablespoons of olive oil, half a glass of dry white wine, an egg, a pinch of bicarbonate of soda and the crumbled fish. Leave the mixture, covered with a cloth, to stand for at least three hours, then fry, placing small spoonfuls in the moderately hot oil, turning the fritters over so they brown on all sides. Dry on kitchen paper and serve piping hot, sprinkled with salt and accompanied by turnips browned in oil.

Finally, mention should be made of the cured pork products from the Apuan Alps, especially the renowed lard of Colonata, white with just a hint of pale pink, which is left to mature eight months in brine and herbs. It should be eaten on slices of toasted bread or in soups. The lard produced elsewhere in the area is equally good, as is the particularly tasty coppa (cured shoulder of pork).

the famous testaroli of Lunigiana
Probably testeroli is the most famous dish of Lunigiana. In a large dish prepare a fairly runny batter with flour, water, salt and add 4 glasses of water to 1/2 kilo of white flour. Place a terracotta baking tray with a lid in flowing embers, and when hot pour in enough batter to forma layer of about 1/2 cm. Cover and leave for 10 minutes, then remove the cooked mixture from the tray and place on a cloth (a testarolo of abour 40cm in diameter is enough for 6 people). When cold, cut into squares about 5cm across; these are then boiled for 1 minute in boiling salted water. Drain and serve immediately with pesto or olive oil and grated sheep’s cheese.

wines that whiff of the sea
In the province of Massa-Carrara, the slopes descending from the marble quarries to the coast are the domain of the Candia dei Colli Apuani, with an annual output of 900 hectolitres. This wine was greatly appreciated by the poet Giovanni Pascoli, who, while he was teaching in Massa, waxed lyrical about the daily pleasure of “feeling the sparkling wine dissolve in the mouth”.

It’s fairly old-established wine that was mentioned in writings of 1874; in the course of time it has acquired its own character that clearly distinguishes it from the wines produced in the neighbouring areas of Liguria and Tuscany, although, in common with them, it has high percentage of Vermentino grapes. A DOC wine since 1981, it should be drunk new with vegetable hors d’oeuvres and fish dishes; the sweetish variety is ideal for accompanying desserts. There’s also a dry type and vin santo.

Since 1989, Colli di Luni has been the most northenly DOC wine in Tuscany and most southerly of Ligurian ones, since its production zone extends into both regionss. Every year a few dozen hectolitres are produced in a narrow strip of land between Fosdinovo, Aulla and Podenzana, and a similar quantity is made in Liguria in 14 communes. Here, too, Vermentino is predominant.

The viticulture of this area was mentioned by Pliny the Elder, while Napoleon’s soldiers also waxed enthusiastic about it. There are three types: Bianco, Vermentino and Rosso.

Originally posted 2009-02-13 16:54:03.