Aulla is dominated by the Fortezza della Brunella, a large square fortress built in the 15th century. Now restored, the fortress can be reached in few minutes walk from the city centre and is the symbol of the town. The Fortezza della Brunella hosts the Lunigiana Natural Science Museum and is located in the middle of a beautiful park, with a view of the two rivers in the valley. Its strategic position at the foot of three important passes (Cisa, Cerreto and Lagastrello), and on the road to Casola and to the Garfagnana, made Aulla a central place for trade between the inland and the sea.

In the course of 11th and 12th centuries the Malaspina family and the Luni bishops competed over Aulla, until the former eventually succeeded. In 1522, the Malaspina family sold Aulla to Giovanni delle Bande Nere. For three years bloody fighting ensued until the Malaspina came back and took power again. The situation remained quiet until the eighteenth century, and Aulla could develop thanks to trade. In 1831 and 1849, Aulla took part in the famous riots that took place in the whole Italian peninsula; it then joined the newly born Regno d’Italia. In the following years Aulla developed further, thanks to the Parma-La Spezia railway and to the ever-increasing importance of the Cisa road – the old pilgrim road to Rome.

More recently, the motorway and a new railway station, continue to help Aulla to develop and grow as a thriving and lively town. The surrounding countryside is magnificent, and conveys the atmosphere of old times.

Some of the more interesting spots are: Caprigliola, whose city walls were built by the Medici; Bibola, with an old ruined castle; Albiano, rich in medieval houses; Olivola, in a dominating position, and Pallerone a, medieval village that hosts a mechanical “presepe” (Nativity representation) made in 1935.

Originally posted 2008-11-24 08:48:47.

An important resource for this region has always been agriculture, specialised in cereals and in the exploitation of large chestnut forests. The area around Casola is still undeveloped and is superb walking country with stunning views over the surrounding valleys. The first settlements date from the Bronze Age when small villages were inhabited by tribes of Ligurian stock . During the Iron Age these villages grew and agriculture became more extensive.

The famous Statue Stele, mysterious stone statues representing stylized human bodies, come from this period. Not until the late Middle Ages did Casola develop as a little town and, to its misfortune, it attracted the interest of the surrounding towns. Casola has been little modified since the XV century; it still retains its characteristic fan shape, which starts from the tower and widens downhill towards the valley. Two doors, the Porta Soprana (Higher Door) and Porta Sottana (Lower Door) delimit the old town, while the tower is Casola’s hub and symbol. The tower was erected in the Middle Ages; it was part of a stronghold and later, in 1745, was transformed in a bell tower. Palazzo Lombardelli, an elegant Renaissance palace, was built in 1544 by the Lombardelli family, one of the richest and most powerful in the region.

Today Casola is a small friendly place with a selection of shops including an excellent butcher and greengrocer, a bank, bar, and even a small petrol station and post office. There is a small (very small) market on Friday – not the one in the pictures which is the Fiera del Cucu. For more information click here. About a mile beyond Casola is little Pieve San Lorenzo where there is a train station for direct trains to Lucca and Pisa. There is also a good restaurant, Il Borghetto, whose owner speaks good English. The area around Casola is wonderful unspoiled countryside with high chestnut-covered hills dotted with ancient villages. A significant portion of the region belongs to the Apuane Park and is characterised by untouched countryside and green hills. Many paths cross this region, leading to little villages and ancient ruined castles; among these latter, the Malaspina castle and the Groppo San Pietro castle. Sightseeing on the Ligurian Riviera and in southern Tuscany.

The Levanto area is the perfect base for exploring and enjoying the delights of the Ligurian Riviera. The most obvious is a day (at least) exploring the colourful fishing villages of the Cinque Terre with their breathtaking coastal walks. Just to the north are several resort towns which repay a visit. The elegant little town of Chiavari has an incredibly beautiful cathederal whilst Portofino has a completely different charm. The ancient port city of Genoa has undergone a huge programme of restoration. The fabulous Palazzo Ducale has been restored to its former glory and the Old Port has been transformed and now includes the famous aquarium which attracts over one million visitors per year. La Spezia and Lerici (where Shelley and Byron lived) are just to the south and also deserve a visit. The south of Tuscany offers a completely different sightseeing experience. Here the sightseeing emphais is one art and architecture. The most famous sight, and one that you must not miss is of course the Duomo at Florence where you can climb to the very top of Brunelleschi’s 15th century dome – and don’t miss Ghiberti’s bronze doors of the baptistery. Another sight not to be missed is the Campo in Siena where the Palio is run. San Gimignano on the other hand has a different feel. Small, quiet and very old San Gimignano, still guarded by its ancient towers, should be seen at leisure. Make time to see the figures of the Virgin Annunciate and the Angel Gabriel carved by Jacopo della Quercia in 1421.

Originally posted 2008-11-24 09:13:11.

Where:

Why: Pontremoli was an important stop on the pilgrim route from Canterbury to Rome, and it retains its look from that time. Despite its well-preserved medieval streets and buildings, a photogenic castle, and intriguing local cuisine, this quiet, quaint town is blissfully tourist-free.

Top Outing: The Castello del Piagnaro crowns a hill overlooking the town. Reached via a narrow alleyway, the castle offers views of countryside, town, and arched, stone bridges crossing the river below. In the castle you’ll find the Museo delle Statue Stele, a repository for anthropomorphic stone statues unearthed by local farmers, excavation crews, and highway workers. The most ancient of them are over 5,000 years old. Each one depicts a single, stylized human figure carved on an upright stone slab, often holding a weapon.

Also Worth Seeing: The Campanone bell tower dominates the central Piazza della Repubblica. This iconic city symbol was part of a wall built in 1322 by conqueror Castruccio Castracani. Like a frustrated parent trying to separate squabbling siblings, Castracani built a wall through the middle of town to quash a bitter war between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, rival factions supporting, respectively, the Papacy and Holy Roman Empire. The cozy piazza is best in late afternoon. Grab a gelato and join the locals on their passeggiata (stroll), walking to the accompaniment of pealing church bells.

Tasty Treats: Check restaurant menus for torta d’erbe, a savory, light-crusted pie filled with edible field grasses, leeks and spinach. Also look for dishes made with cinghiale (wild boar) or local prugnolo, grifola, or colombina mushrooms. Some experts say the regional dish testaroli was the first pasta. Thin, eggless, wheat-flour pancakes are cooked in large, terracotta or cast-iron pans called testi and then cut into pieces, boiled briefly, and served with pesto or olive oil and Parmesan cheese.

Where to Stay: Quiet, modern, three-star Hotel Napoleon is near the city center.

When to Go: Because it’s in the mountains, Lunigiana is cooler than the rest of Tuscany in summer, but wait until fall for colored foliage and the wild mushroom harvest.

How to Get There: Pontremoli is just off the A15 Autostrada between La Spezia and Parma.

Originally posted 2010-03-31 14:08:03.

The nearby Gulf of Poets saw the Romantic poets Shelley and Byron set the artistic world on fire and follow in the Renaissance footsteps of Dante and Michelangelo.

Castles in Lunigiana During the Middle Ages, there were 160 castles in Lunigiana, only thirty of which have reached our times in a good state of preservation.

The historical origins of these castles date back to times when the Langobards dominated most of the Pianura Padana and, seeking an outlet on the Ligurian/Tuscan coast, they found in the Passo della Cisa the natural way to cross the Appennines. On the other hand, when Luni (which has disappeared) was a flourishing city and harbour, the Romans had already built solid defensive posts along the road which linked up Northern Lunigiana. On the traces of this Roman road the Langobards built the Via Francigena, for the control of which there was a bloody and ferocious struggle among the little feud . The most important castles in Lunigiana, including the castle of the Piagnaro in Pontremoli, the Rocca of Villafranca and the fortified village of Filetto, were built during this period. When the Malaspina played an import part in the politics of Lunigiana, they built a great number of castles, which were used as residences and defences of territory by the several branches of the family. Concerning this we must say that the Malaspinas followed rules which were quite different from those applied in other Italian feuds for the succession of the heirs to the feudal power: the property, the estates and the power were divided into equal parts among all sons, without a special treatment for the eldest one. That led to the formation of dozens of little feuds, each requiring a new castle, on the occasion of every succession. Thus many small (and picturesque) castles were built in Lunigiana, but at the cost of weakening the power of the family at each generation.

Lunigiana is the undiscovered northernmost tip of Tuscany and lies between the coastal province of Liguria to the west and the Apennine mountains to the north-east. To the south-east the region is dominated by the peaks of the Parco Alpi Apuane beyond which are the Renaisance Cities of Florence, Pisa and Lucca. This is an area of outstanding natural beauty dotted with ancient hill-top villagesand terraced olive groves. Not yet discovered by tourists the area is economically poor but rich in other ways. Here the pace is slow, the food and wine robust and the smiles as warm as the sunshine. Here the old-fashioned courtesies are observed and the stranger made welcome. Lunigiana is a veritable paradise for walkers, painters, photographers, and those who simply enjoy the pleasures of life, and is full of natural curiosities such as the caves near Equi Terme, site of the natural sulphur baths. There are also castles, churches, monuments and whole villages built before Columbus set sail for the New World. Names of once-mighty families such as the Medici and Malaspina are commemorated by the fountains, piazzas and palaces they left behind, and all of this is within an hour or so train ride or drive of their more famous cousins to the south – Florence, Pisa and Lucca. And if that is not enough there are festivals, street markets and palios a-plenty – often in medieval costume. The main town in the area is Aulla from which the Taverone and Aulella valleys radiate, the hillsides of which are covered with chestnut woods and high meadows. At the end of the Taverone valley the Lagestrello pass marks the route through into Parma Province, the source of the River Taverone and the end of the Crenale mountain ridge. Leading more directly east from Aulla the old Lucca road runs along the Aulella valley, through Casola and on into the Parco Alpi Apuane before turning south along the old pilgrim road to Lucca. Bordering Lunigiana to the west, past La Spezia and the famous pretty fishing villages of The Cinque Terre is the province of Liguria, with its sandy beaches and pleasant climate.

Originally posted 2008-11-24 08:36:35.

Pontremoli is believed to have been first settled around a thousand years before Christ.

It was known in Roman times as Apua. The commune later became an independent municipality in 1226 thanks to Federico II who charters the free municipality, partly because of its mountainous situation. This situation in the valley of the Magra also made Pontremoli a target for numerous conquests from rival Italian and foreign lords. Pontremoli was controlled by various aristocratic families, including the Malaspina (in 1319) and the Antelminelli (in 1322). The conflict between the rival Guelfi and Ghibellini factions in the early fourteenth century resulted in the construction of the Great Bell Tower (Il Campanone) to separate the rival camps. During these Medieval times Pontremoli was often visited by pilgrims travelling from Canterbury to Rome.

In 1331 Pontremoli was sold by John I of Bohemia to Mastino II della Scala (Lord of Verona). Pontremoli was later taken over by the Visconti of Milan in 1339. In 1404 the ownership of Pontremoli once again changed hands as it was seized by the Fieschi family of Genoa. However, by 1433 Pontremoli was again under the control of the Milanese. In 1495 Pontremoli was sacked by the troops of Charles VIII of France, during this time Pontremoli was a territory owned by the House of Sforza, who were the new Dukes of Milan.

Pontremoli was a French territory from 1508 until 1522 as several northern Italian areas were conquered. In 1526, Pontremoli was captured by Charles V of the Holy Roman Empire. Pontremoli was controlled by Spain until 1647, when it was bought by the Republic of Genoa. Three years later, Pontremoli was made part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. It stayed as such (with the exception of a period of French control from 1805 to 1814) until Italian unification in the nineteenth century.

With the Leopoldine reforms, Pontremoli became an autonomous community (whilst still part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany) in 1777. In 1778, it officially became a City. The area was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1834. In November 1847 Pontremoli was (along with Fivizzano) occupied by the Duke of Modena, due to a dispute over trade routes.

Originally posted 2010-03-31 14:01:35.